¡Mi casa, Su (Oaxaca) Casa!

¡Los amantes de Guajillo rejoice!

The same owner who brought the Mexican restaurant on Wilson Blvd in Arlington has built another Mole Casa. When I search for a new restaurant, I do so on foot, not by turning pages. This is largely in part from not residing in the area very long; allowing me to explore the realm of culinary possibilities more meticulously by taking in each passing establishment. Also, proudly, I don’t own a car. Besides, it allows me to independently judge for myself how good a hole-in-the-wall is; thus reducing the amount of disappointing possibilities from reading pages of reviews. So, stop reading and start walking, lazy bastards.

Separated by two levels, it only faintly differs from its sister restaurant in Northern Virginia, Guajillo, most noticeably: the dark-orange painted walls, crucifixes, and no outdoor seating. But the menu and service are mirrored. Resembling a fine wine list at an Italian bistro, a tequila catalog blankets the right portion of their menu. Try the el Conquistador or Cazadores. No chips and salsa while you’re waiting. No burritos or taquitos anywhere. Rather, jicama wedges sprinkled with chili powder while you wait for your Mole Poblano or Red Snapper Ceviche with pineapple.

The cantina below, which is where I spent most of my time, carries a quiet feeling that includes additional restaurant seating from above. Since I’d previously had Mole, I wanted something new. A couple of them: Cheladas and Grasshoppers. Chelada is Mexico’s version of a bloody mary, infused with cerveza. The strong peppery liquid is not your ideal thirst quencher, I still can’t figure out why so many people were drinking them. The grasshoppers had been diced up and layered on a queso dip called Cazuela de Queso con Salsa y Chapulines served with tortillas. While it seems a stretch to try an insect, the cheese overpowers it, leaving you wondering where they even were.

On to the Mole – 50 % of the reason I was looking for a place like this. Enmolda is Black Mole caked on a cheese quesadilla with diced onions. It was just like I remembered: simple, distinct and good. The Mole rainbow ranges from green, yellow, and red, often served together as Tres Moles in most casa’s; separately, Poblano being the hottest. For those unaccustomed to this type of authentic fare, there are tacos to settle the distant feeling. For your peso, this is place is reasonable when you consider the rare plate of food in front of your jaw. Significant infrastructure upgrades are necessary, such as outdoor seating and additional beer taps (only Dos Equis Amber is flowing). But if enough people keep drinking that lethal Chelada, maybe they don’t need to. I’m not coming in out of the cold for it.